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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.